Artisan Cheese, Gourmet Specialty Food, Recipes, Wine - Formaggio Kitchen Blog

Formaggio Kitchen Blog

Whole Grain Pasta from Mulino Marino

When it comes to exceptional flour producers, Mulino Marino tops the list. This family-run mill started in 1959 when Felice Marino learned of a small mill for sale in Cossano Belbo, a town nestled in the rolling hills and vineyards of northern Piedmont, Italy. The mill featured original millstones and rollers, and a fascinated Felice decided to buy it. Working with his wife and parents, the family began producing a range of flours and distributing them to bakers for bread making. Today, Felice’s sons Flavio and Ferdinando and grandsons Fulvio and Fausto continue the tradition along with their own families sharing their love of organically grown, Italian flours.

Partnerships and Dried Pasta

Recently, Mulino Marino partnered with a small pastaio (pasta-maker) in Rome to produce pasta made from the Marino family’s Senatore Cappelli flour. This wheat has a high protein content and is ideally suited for making bread and pasta. To make this beautiful new pasta, the wheat is stone-ground to maintain as much of its nutritional value as possible. The ridges in the pasta are perfect for catching chunky sauces and gooey cheese. Dinner has never tasted so good!

The Millstones of Mulino Marino

The natural old Franc millstones of Mulino Marino continue to be used today grinding traditional, organically farmed cereals that have never been hybridized or genetically altered. The family works with three natural stone mills: one for “Otto File” (eight row) maize from the Langhe that produces the most perfect cornmeal for polenta; one stone for hard and soft grains including their popular buratto flour which is a favorite of famed pizza artisan Gabriele Bonci; and one more stone for low-gluten varieties of wheat such as spelt, enkir, rye, buckwheat, kamut, chickpea, barley, and chestnut.

Senatore Cappelli Wheat

Senatore Cappelli wheat was first established through genealogical selection by Strampelli Nazarene in 1915. The variety was named after a senator from Abruzzo named Raffaele Cappelli who was a supporter of early 20th century agricultural reform in Italy, responsible for (among other things) the distinction between hard and soft wheats. This wheat variety was very popular because it offered a strong yield, was highly adaptable to various growing environments, and was a relatively hardy crop. Senatore Cappelli was the primary wheat variety used in Puglia and Basilicata in the 1930s and 40s. In fact, up until the 1960s, Senatore Cappelli was the wheat grown in roughly 60% of the wheat fields throughout Italy.

After World War II, new varieties of wheat became available because of advances in genetic manipulation and the wide availability of pesticides and fertilizers. Even though the quality was not the same, these new varieties were even more productive, and more importantly, could be harvested earlier. Soon enough, Senatore Cappelli was replaced as the primary wheat grown in Italy. Today, due to a focus on flavor and quality, Senatore Cappelli has once again, become a favorite flour for artisan pasta makers.

Interview with Glenn Roberts of Anson Mills

Anson Mills founder Glenn Roberts grew up in San Diego, California, working at his mother’s restaurant on weekends as a busboy. A man of diverse interests, after graduating from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill on a music and science scholarship, Glenn became involved in architectural history and the history of food. For several years between projects, Continue Reading »

Q & A with Richard Kzirian

Violette Wine Cellars is the importer, distributor, and retailer for natural and biodynamic wine where Richard Kzirian, long time friend of Ihsan and Valerie Gurdal, has challenged the wine scene for decades. Valerie reached out to chat with the wine pioneer himself about the industry and his perspective on how it has evolved in the last few decades. Ihsan and Continue Reading »

Andrea’s “No Cook” Favorite Recipes for Summer

Summer in Boston is a beautiful thing. Walking down Commonwealth with the trees beautifully arching over the park, watching kids splashing around in a frog pond, people kayaking in the Charles, the city becomes the perfect summer wonderland.  And let’s not forget the marvelous local corn, delicious leafy greens, and the crowning glory of the Continue Reading »

Q & A with Matt Jennings

Chef Matt Jennings grew up in Jamaica Plain, where he developed a love of local, fresh ingredients. After learning all he could here at Formaggio Kitchen, where he was a cheesemonger and buyer from 1999-2001, Matt opened a successful New England bistro and cheese shop named Farmstead, Inc. in Providence, Rhode Island. After many successful years Continue Reading »