Balsamic VinegarPrint this Page
Liquid Gold from Italy: Balsamic Vinegar
Balsamic vinegar is one of the numerous culinary contributions of the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy (others include Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma). Balsamic production is strictly controlled and takes place in two areas within the region: Reggio Emilia and Modena. This is where it can get confusing because indeed there are several types of balsamico even within these regions. Within the confines of Reggio Emilia there is only one regulated balsamico: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia. Within Modena, there are two regulated balsamicos: Aceto Balsamico di Modena and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. Outside of these regulated products are many producers who make amazing balsamico but for one reason or another are not part of the consortia of certified producers. This does not mean that their product is any less special, but without a certification to guide the consumer, it is essential that the acetaia is known for following traditional methods of balsamico production. The most important characteristic of balsamic vinegar is that it is made with nothing more than grape must acetified to perfection. Any additional ingredients such as vinegar, caramel coloring or other flavors are elements found in industrial products of drastically lesser quality than true balsamico.
Producing Balsamico
True balsamico is made from the mosto or must (juice from light pressing along with the skins and stems) of ripe grapes grown within the region including varieties such as Trebbiano, Occhio di Gato, Spergola, or Berzemino. One of the important distinguishing features of balsamico is that the must is removed prior to any fermentation so that no alcohol is produced. With typical wine vinegar, the must is first fermented into wine and then acetified.
The must is filtered and brought to a boil and then a simmer over an open flame for 24-30 hours during which time, the liquid is reduced to roughly one third of its original volume. In addition to reducing the liquid, the cooking begins to caramelize the natural sugars in the juice which lends an amber color to the liquid. The cooled liquid is then inoculated with yeasts or the "mother" which begins the fermentation process. It is then transferred to a battery of barrels consisting of at least three barrels of decreasing sizes and made from one of the traditional woods: oak, chestnut, mulberry, cherry, ash, and juniper. The first barrel can be no larger than 50 L and may only be filled to 4/5 capacity. After a year the vinegar is decanted into a smaller barrel made of a different type of wood, and after the next to a still smaller barrel of a different wood. As the vinegar ages, more of the precious liquid evaporates and the barrel is continually topped up with a bit of liquid from the previous barrel. Over time, this evaporation concentrates the flavors of the juice and further integrates the flavors of the wood. True balsamico is never aged less than 12 years after which the original volume (roughly 18 gallons) has been reduced to less than one gallon.
With this amount of time and effort put into the production, it is easy to understand why balsamic is so expensive! and so exquisite. A small chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano with a couple of drops of fine Balsamic vinegar is a conceptually simple pleasure, but such a complex and satisfying flavor is not easily forgotten. Truly a pantry staple, a fine balsamico is one of our favorite housewarming gifts and is also a unique and thoughtful wedding gift.
Here at the store we have balsamico in a variety of ages. For example, we carry two Aceto Balsamico di Modena Extra-Vecchios from Carandini: a 6-year-old called Primavera a 10-year-old called Europa. Additionally, La Vecchia Dispensa produces our prized 20 and 40 year-old examples of non-consortium Aceto Balsamico di Modena. A drizzle of thick black balsamico adds a sweet, tart, and complex note to so many dishes. Try our finest balsamicos drizzled over a rich mushroom risotto, a goat’s cheese and tomato tart, warm golden polenta, the crisp brown skin of roasted pork or chicken, blanched green beans, roasted winter squash, the season’s last tomatoes and some mozzarella di buffalo, a dish of strawberries or raspberries, over vanilla ice cream or gelato or the classic: a simple plate of prosciutto di Parma and a crumble of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia
There is some debate as to which zone of production was the first to produce balsamico Reggio Emilia or Modena. In either case, there are references to this fine vinegar as far back as the 16th century. As in Modena, the Aceto Balsamcio Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia is graded by age as a minimum of twelve years, but less than 25 or over 25 years for extravecchio. However, Reggio Emilia's producers have gone further and adopted a rating system which signify a more qualitative ranking based on anonymous tastings performed by the consortium. The three categories that have been defined are aragosta (red seal - roughly 25 years), argento (silver seal - roughly 50 years) and oro (gold seal - roughly 75 years). Regardless of the grade the balsamic has been given, all Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia must be bottled in a traditional "inverted tulip" bottle of 100ml size.
Aceto Balsamico di Modena
There are two consortiums that set the standards for and ultimately certify a product as either Aceto Balsamico di Modena or Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. Many of the production requirements are the same for both products and are distinguished primarily by age. The Aceto Balsamico di Modena can be aged for three years or less in which case it is called affinato or matured and has a red label with the CABM logo or the vinegar can be aged for more than three years in which case it is considered invecchiato or aged and carries the white CABM label. In either case, in order to obtain the consortium's certification, the vinegar is analysed by an approved laboratory just before bottling to ensure that it complies with the chemical, flavour and aroma characteristics required by the consortium regulations. Apart from the labels, there is not a specific bottle required for these vinegars.
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena
Two types of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Moden are produced based on age: vinegar that is at least twelve years old but not more than 25 years old and the "extra-vecchio" which is aged for a minimum of 25 years. These vinegars are indicated by the consortium label placed on the bottle. In fact, the bottle itself is controlled. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena can only be bottled in a 100-ml bottle designed by Giugiaro.