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Jean-Paul Dubost’s Extraordinary Beaujolais-Villages

We’ve described it as natural, happy, delicious and (yes) perfect. Why? Because in the 2015 vintage this hits all the pleasure points: bright, juicy fruit, just-right acidity, plush tannins and a scoop or two of that lovely Beaujolais earth.

The source of the fruit is Domaine du Tracot, in the Dubost family since 1902, situated in the heart of the region 10km south of Mâcon. Yields from the 40+ year-old Gamay vines were a scant 36 hectoliters per hectare in ’15 – well below the permitted 52 hl/h. Production is a very modest 3000 cases annually. The farming follows biodynamic principles, fermentations are effected with native yeast populations only, and, with the exception of a tiny squirt of SO2 at bottling to keep everything steady, no additives of any kind are resorted to.

The Dubost family makes fancier wine from its holdings in the cru villages of Brouilly, Morgon, Fleurie, and Moulin à Vent — and they are very good indeed — but in a recent tasting of the portfolio it was this entry-level charmer that took our breath away.

We’re reminded daily that we live in an imperfect world. But that doesn’t mean that just occasionally one perfect little thing can’t come our way. This is one of them.

2015 Jean-Paul Dubost “Tracot” Beaujolais Villages, $17.95.  

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Available at Formaggio Kitchen Cambridge, or for pick-up at Formaggio Kitchen South End with one day’s notice.

– Stephen Meuse, Wine Buyer at Formaggio Kitchen Cambridge 

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