Grains, Rice, Flours & Beans Articles - Formaggio Kitchen

Grains, Rice, Flours & Beans

Whole Grain Pasta from Mulino Marino

When it comes to exceptional flour producers, Mulino Marino tops the list. This family-run mill started in 1959 when Felice Marino learned of a small mill for sale in Cossano Belbo, a town nestled in the rolling hills and vineyards of northern Piedmont, Italy. The mill featured original millstones and rollers, and a fascinated Felice decided to buy it. Working with his wife and parents, the family began producing a range of flours and distributing them to bakers for bread making. Today, Felice’s sons Flavio and Ferdinando and grandsons Fulvio and Fausto continue the tradition along with their own families sharing their love of organically grown, Italian flours.

Partnerships and Dried Pasta

Recently, Mulino Marino partnered with a small pastaio (pasta-maker) in Rome to produce pasta made from the Marino family’s Senatore Cappelli flour. This wheat has a high protein content and is ideally suited for making bread and pasta. To make this beautiful new pasta, the wheat is stone-ground to maintain as much of its nutritional value as possible. The ridges in the pasta are perfect for catching chunky sauces and gooey cheese. Dinner has never tasted so good!

The Millstones of Mulino Marino

The natural old Franc millstones of Mulino Marino continue to be used today grinding traditional, organically farmed cereals that have never been hybridized or genetically altered. The family works with three natural stone mills: one for “Otto File” (eight row) maize from the Langhe that produces the most perfect cornmeal for polenta; one stone for hard and soft grains including their popular buratto flour which is a favorite of famed pizza artisan Gabriele Bonci; and one more stone for low-gluten varieties of wheat such as spelt, enkir, rye, buckwheat, kamut, chickpea, barley, and chestnut.

Senatore Cappelli Wheat

Senatore Cappelli wheat was first established through genealogical selection by Strampelli Nazarene in 1915. The variety was named after a senator from Abruzzo named Raffaele Cappelli who was a supporter of early 20th century agricultural reform in Italy, responsible for (among other things) the distinction between hard and soft wheats. This wheat variety was very popular because it offered a strong yield, was highly adaptable to various growing environments, and was a relatively hardy crop. Senatore Cappelli was the primary wheat variety used in Puglia and Basilicata in the 1930s and 40s. In fact, up until the 1960s, Senatore Cappelli was the wheat grown in roughly 60% of the wheat fields throughout Italy.

After World War II, new varieties of wheat became available because of advances in genetic manipulation and the wide availability of pesticides and fertilizers. Even though the quality was not the same, these new varieties were even more productive, and more importantly, could be harvested earlier. Soon enough, Senatore Cappelli was replaced as the primary wheat grown in Italy. Today, due to a focus on flavor and quality, Senatore Cappelli has once again, become a favorite flour for artisan pasta makers.

Interview with Glenn Roberts of Anson Mills

Anson Mills founder Glenn Roberts grew up in San Diego, California, working at his mother’s restaurant on weekends as a busboy. A man of diverse interests, after graduating from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill on a music and science scholarship, Glenn became involved in architectural history and the history of food. For several years between projects, Continue Reading »

Iggy’s Heritage Grain Breads

If you’ve been in Cambridge over the past 20 years, you know the Iggy’s trucks by sight with their blue-green globe, peace sign + heart and “bread of the world” tag line. Their bakery locations have always been a bit harder to find – from their small start in Watertown in 1994 to their current Continue Reading »

Formaggio Kitchen’s Own Barbecue Baked Beans

Our well-earned summer weather in Boston has us on a steady diet of dinners from the grill, from the requisite burgers and sausages to salads stuffed with grilled veggies and beyond. While it’s hardly the season for heavy oven use, summer isn’t complete without a big batch of barbecue baked beans. If you feel inspired Continue Reading »

True Grits

When I set foot in Formaggio Kitchen for the first time, I was, of course, blown away by the grandeur of the cheese wall, the array of gorgeous wines, and the glimmering bakery case. It’s hard not to be swept up in the sheer spectacle of so many elegant, carefully curated foods together under one Continue Reading »