Wine Picks for the New Year
Formaggio Kitchen has always had a taste in wine that is decidedly old-world. For us, "Old World" applies to wine that is produced within a framework of respect for tradition, respect for the fruit and respect for the environment in which it grows. We seek truth in our wines - not flavors that have been manipulated to appeal to a broad audience. In most of our wines, we celebrate the differences between vintages where the wine is allowed to tell you a bit about that year's growing season. The wines we select are often produced using sustainable, biodynamic or organic methods whether certified or not. For these producers, this approach is not a "green" marketing technique; it is simply the way their family has always made wine - with an eye to maintaining the health of their vineyards and of their fruit to make the truest wine they can.
Each month our wine buyer selects a few wines that are capturing our attention. You can find these wines at our Cambridge store but it is worth calling in advance as many of the quantities are limited. Unfortunately we cannot ship wine, but we can certainly ship you a selection of cheeses to pair with your favorite bottle!
Erbaluna Le Rocche Barolo '01 - Piedmont, Italy
Barolo is a region of bountiful wines, where total surface area of vineyards reach across 11 communes and 3,100 acres. Over the years, "modern" and "traditional" producers have both created long lasting reputation, making the D.O.C.G. of Barolo one of the most respected regions in Italy. Azienda Erbaluna was presented to us years ago by Violette Imports, but did not become a staple for Formaggio Kitchen until 2007. A visit to Vinitaly in Spring of 2008, sparked a stronger connection to the wines of Erbaluna. The estate is currently run by Severino and Andrea Oberto, two brothers who in 1985 finished school and decided to take over the family business. They made a conscience choice to ban all chemical treatments, such as oidium and replaced them by using powdered sulphur, medicinal plant extracts, sea weed and propolis, instead of synthetic products. The total estate covers 9.55 hectares (23.59 acres) and produces a variety of traditional Piemontese varietals, which lay mostly on calcareous marly clay and layered sandstone. The beautiful, southfacing vineyards of Le Rocche, is the top source for the Nebbiolo based Barolo "Le Rocche" wine. Suitable to drink right now , this Barolo has aromas and flavors of tar and crushed roses, orange zest and molasses along with stone-like minerals and a full mouthfeel and remarkable tannins. Quantity is very limited.............
Cazin Cheverny '07 - Loire, France
At Formaggio Kitchen, we are crazy about the wines of Francois Cazin for their value and tipicity; we simply can't get enough. The appellation of Cheverney is one of the few recent new appellations in the Loire. The appellation rests near the boggy region of Sologne (which does not have A.O.C. status) and has produced wines since the 6th century. Here is where the soils are comprised of clay, limestone and silica, which give the wines their remarkable minerality. According to the law, Cheverny must blend the regional varietals, which can include; Pinot Noir, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Côt (Malbec) for reds and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Menu Pineau for whites. the 2007 Cheverny blends Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay; it shows vivid minerality, pure fruit, piercing acidity along with fresh, floral aromas.
Coturri Carignane '07 - Glenn Ellen, California
Tony Coturri, the name, the man and of course the wine have so much to offer. The wines (aside from being organic and even able to pass as biodynamic) are a pure example of varietal character and terroir, derived from purchased fruit and estate fruit. Tony and his brother Phil learned how to make organic wine from their father, Harry "Red" Coturri and helped establish Coturri Winery in 1979. The '07 Carignane comes from the Testa Vineyards (vineyards purchased by Italian immigants in 1912) in Mendocino County, which is run by Maria and Rusty Testa. Carignane, an old varietal, is typically a blending grape that is common in the South of France. In Tony's application he seems to pay tribute to the southern french varietal. The '07 Carignane is of a remarkable vintage, granting us a wine that only has 12.7% alcohol. It gracefully presents itself through delicate floral and dark ripe fruit aromas, along with hints of minerals, soft-edges and a clean finish.
Jean Lallement et Fils Reserve Brut, NV - Champagne, France
Around this time of year, we eagerly anticipate the arrival of certain wines that we must wait for, due to limited production. Young and gifted vigneron, Jean Lallement is one of those producers. Within the Montagne de Reims is where you will find 4.5 hectares of Lallements' Grand Cru Verzy and Verzenay sites, as well as the Premier Cru, Ludes. This Reserve is an exemplary blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay from both Verzenay and Verzy sites. Consider buying at least one bottle to drink for the holiday season and one bottle to store away, as this will greatly benefit from aging. At the core of this Champagne is persistent, intense and lengthy, defined fruit as well as remarkable notes of iron-like minerality.
Bera Moscato d' Asti '07 - Piedmont, Italy
Piedmont, Piedmont, Piedmont, we just cannot get enough of Piemontese wines, let alone honey, preserves, cheeses and the holiday appropriate panettone. The Bera estate is run by Alessandra and Vittorio Bera and is where you will find an uncomparable devotion to the Moscato grape. It was planted around the 13th century and maintained by the Bera's ancestors in 1785, when a plot of land was purchased from the Knights of Malta. The Bera family can also be credited as being the first estate in Canelli to bottle and market its own wine. All vineyard work is organic, to help maintain healthy and active vineyards, all natural yeasts are used in the cellars, with winemaking in the hands of Alessandra's forward thinking and talented brother, Gianluigi Bera. This is truly the best Moscato D' Asti I have tasted with an onslaught of delicate, full aromas and flavors. It's texture is fleshy, sweet and round with melon, elderflower, apricot, sage and orange peel presenting itself in order on the palate. Drink with panettone and/or a fruit crostata.
Ridge Montebello '05 - Cupertino, CA
The premier estate of Ridge dates back to 1886, yet did not gain status until 1962. High in the Santa Cruz mountains, Italian immigrants planted the first vineyards of Ridge, Montebello. Today, it is considered to be Ridge's top vineyard sites, headed by Paul Draper and his team. The Ridge team, implements fully sustainable vineyard practices, use natural yeasts and impressively includes a detailed description of the wine and vintage on each bottle of wine. As noted on the bottle, 2005 is a remarkable vintage, with full, even complete ripening of grapes, just in time for harvest. (October 4th-November 1st) 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22%Merlot, 6%Petit Verdot and 2%Cabernet Franc are blended together and eventually aged for Seventeen Months in American and French oak. This '05 Montebello harnesses a layered and intense nose of black-currant and bing cherries with hints of star anise and complementing vanilla. Intense black fruit meshes beautifully with lush, silky tannins with a spike of acidity to balance out the intense fruit. This is a bottle to cherish and to age, as it will develop over many decades to come.
