Early Spring 2009 Wine Picks
Formaggio Kitchen has always had a taste in wine that is decidedly old-world. For us, "Old World" applies to wine that is produced within a framework of respect for tradition, respect for the fruit and respect for the environment in which it grows. The wines we select are often produced using sustainable, biodynamic or organic methods whether certified or not. For these producers, this approach is not a "green" marketing technique; it is simply the way their family has always made wine - with an eye to maintaining the health of their vineyards and of their fruit to make the truest wine they can.
Each month our wine buyer selects a few wines that are capturing our attention. You can find these wines at our Cambridge store but it is worth calling in advance as many of the quantities are limited. Unfortunately we cannot ship wine, but we can certainly ship you a selection of cheeses to pair with your favorite bottle!
Azienda Occhipinti Frappato 2006 Sicily, Italy
This Sicilian estate is located in the town of Vittoria, in the southern portion of Sicily. Arianna Occhipinti is all biodynamic in the vineyards, followed by a natural fermentation in the cellars. Only regional Frappato and Nero d' Avola grapes are harvested with remarkable care and are vinified to a moderate percentage of alcohol. To me, this is what sicilian reds should be; nothing heavy or over-extracted and why bother with merlot and cabernet sauvignon in these particular climates? Ariannas' Frappato is elegant in every facet; slightly floral, pure and dry with earthy mulberry-like fruit and impressive minerality. For cheese, think Calcagno, Paglierino and Cinerino. Please decant and enjoy.
I Clivi Venezia Giulia Bianco Degli Arzillari 2004 Friuli, Italy
Ferdinando and son Mario Zanusso run this organic, pristine estate on the Friulian slopes of the Colli Orientali, just a stone's throw from Slovenia. This estate devotes itself to local varietals including Malvasia Istriana, Tocai Friulano, Verduzzo Friulano and Merlot (yes Merlot - planted there almost 150 years ago). All wines undergo a natural fermentation in stainless steel and are typically left on the lees (dead yeast) for at least two years to stabilize. The wines are then put on the market after a minimum of 3 years bottle aging. This Verduzzo Friulano based white is produced using grapes from 60 to 70 year vines grown on the Gramogliano hillsides. Hints of green apples persist in this wine but it is best characterized by its silky, almost salty, minerally texture. Drink with sea bass, fried anchovies and alpine cheeses such as Testun, Raschera and Nostrale.
Azienda Agricola Vajra Langhe Rosso 2007 - Piedmont, Italy
Founded in 1972, the estate of G.D. Vajra (Giuseppe Dominico) is run by Milena and Aldo Vajra. It is regarded as one of the most reputed Barolo producers in the area. Vineyards are spread amongst sites different sites, each valued for a specific type of wine and/or bottling. They include; Bricco delle Viole, Fossati, La Volta and Coste di Vergne. This red is classified as a Langhe Rosso and is typically labeled as so due to a varietal or grape that is not, by law, allowed to be grown AND labeled under a specific appellation. This red is truly one of our favorites at Formaggio Kitchen, because of simply how delicious it is and its' versatility with food. Flavors and aromas are high toned, clean, crisp and lively, blending Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa and Merlot. For cheese, think of Nostrale di Elva, Castelrosso and Robiola.....
Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon 2007 - Beaujolais, France
Morgon, one of ten "Crus" in Beaujolais is one of the largest and has the ability to produce masculine and robust Gamay-based reds. Jean-Paul Thevenet is part of a small group of vignerons who work rigorously to produce some of the most authentic Morgons on the market. Organic viticulture, natural yeasts, old vines and low yielding fruit are just some of positive attributes that define Thevenets philosophies. After fermentation, the wine is aged six to eight months in used (neutral) oak barrels and bottled without filtration. This 2007 Morgon has a slight nose of juniper berry, cinnamon spice and rich, red fruit all of this accompanied by subtle, earthy undertones. In the mouth it is has a full, lush texture, balanced acidity and a round, faintly tannic finish. This wine is beautiful in its youth and has great aging potential. Drink with a slightly aged Charollais or Tomme Fedou. Decant and Enjoy!